Tuesday, March 3, 2009

the Plan

see, I knew I would get this done. My intention was to get this done at work today, so I packed up my handy tote bag with pencils, paper, and such. But then I had to work at work today which was an odd but not unpleasant change from the normal Monday in the tasting room.

In any event, here's my final plan.



Linen Print Skirt, based on a 1949 reprint. I lowered the waistline and raised the hem to give it a more 50's look. The yellow jumper is a bright yellow cotton, with just a hint of egg yolk. These will come in handy on weekends while working in the tasting room and for Past Times events.
The trousers both have wide waistbands and pleated leg; one textured tan poplin with off-center button closure, the other is navy/tan corduroy with tab closure. These are practical for weekdays in the studio or winery when there is stocking to be done.

Three fitted shirts. Corded Swiss Dot with 1/2 sleeve and turned cuff has entre-deux detail at yoke. Green Print Silk sleeveless shirt has geometric print and fitted lower bodice with gathered yoke. Pale Green Cotton Poplin shirt will have floral glass buttons and simple tailoring.

Three knit shirts. Black shirt is made of Rayon/Spandex, and will have a boat neck with 1/2 sleeves. Orange Hemp knit and Orange/Yellow Stripe Cotton knit have scoop necklines and cap sleeves. All three are tunic length to stay tucked in while I'm lifting wine cases and working in the studio.

Green Twill Jacket is Double Breasted with topstitched details in yellow thread and matching yellow paisley buttons. While the digital photos aren't showing the color well, the jacket is the color of the print on the silk blouse, and the buttons/thread will match the yellow jumper.

Since the point of the plan is to create a wardrobe which works well no matter how you mix it, here is my mix and match plan. Keep in mind that the green cropped jacket would go with any of these.


Saturday, February 28, 2009

Retro Springtime Inspiration

I realized that I jumped in without explaining the Plan in my sewing. I do that sometimes (a lot) so bear with me there. As I said in my previous post, I love the classic styles that never seem to go out of fashion. Marlene Dietrich, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly. Just wearing classic styles reminds me of them and adds a lilt to my walk, a confidence to my conversations.

As I selected fabrics and styles for this collection, I envisioned springtime in New York or Paris, circa 1935-1955. I am intentionally mixing eras because my everyday is a collection of varied activities, all focused around the central theme of history, creativity, and love of place.

My four bottoms pieces are a gored skirt, a jumper/sundress, and two pair of flared trousers.
My six tops are three knit tops and three fitted shirts.
And for my coat, I will make a twill cropped double breasted jacket.
My palette consists of two basics and two colors.
Black and Warm White with shades Orange and Green.

I hope this makes sense. That storyboard should be coming soon.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Retro Springtime (sewing with a plan)

Well, it's that time of year when I start to get sick of the gray skies and most everything in my closet. I've been considering doing a SWAP for a few years now, and decided this is the year to jump in. This may be a mini-swap though; we will see how much I get done.

I have always loved the classic styles of the 30's and 40's, and have been wearing more and more vintage and vintage inspired clothing the past few years. Because I recently started up the Past Times Society (more about that later) I will be needing more vintage clothing from a variety of decades. Because I am rather practical, I don't want these to be one-time wear garments but rather something I can work into my permanent wardrobe.

After going through my stash (it's big, folks) and a trip to Mill End for essentials which inevitably ended with a few mysterious non-essentials in my bag (I hate when they do that) I started cutting today. Here is what I have so far:

Blue/Tan pinwale corduroy trousers. I was looking for some hard denim for this pattern, but I just have a thing for underdyed corduroy. I prewashed the fabric in hot water, which removed a lot of the sizing and gave the fabric a much softer hand.

I also removed the front pleat when I cut these out. Why anyone puts a pleat on the front of trousers is beyond me. That is not the place on my body where I want fullness added. I will probably elimate the cuff as well, but cut the full length in case I change my mind.


Dandelion Cotton Jumper/Sundress


This is a reprint of a vintage pattern, and I altered it so that I can wear it alone if I want. I raised the armscyes 1/2" and narrowed the boatneck by 1". I cut the fuller skirt view for this, but will probably make the other view later on.
I found some great buttons but since this closes with a zipper, they will most likely go on a matching jacket or cardigan. I saved the scraps for trim as well. Maybe something in a cream. We'll have to see what wonders the stash has to hold.


Black/White Graphic Print Linen Skirt
I have been eyeing this fabric since last fall when I first saw it at Mill End. It is a fairly stiff linen, so it should work well with this 8-gored skirt pattern. I also like the idea of breaking up the print with the piecing. Because I couldn't find any buttons which went with the style of the fabric, I'm eliminating them and will use an invisible back zipper. To make this more of a 50's era skirt, I am raising the hemline to just below the knee (this will also make it more wearable as a summer skirt) and lowering the raised waist detail. To accentuate the lines of the skirt, I will use a black bias trim on the waistband and may do the same for the hem.

Graphic Print Green Silk Sleeveless Blouse

There was just barely a yard of this when I spied it on the counter last night, so no sleeves. The green is more vibrant in person; I'll try to take some shots in sunlight as I progress.
This is a very lightweight silk but has nice body so it won't shimmy around when I'm trying to sew it. I cut this blouse with the collar so that it will wear nicely with the yellow jumper. Can you tell I'm longing for spring??
No buttons purchased yet, I forgot my list at home so will have to go back. Oh dear.

Orange Hemp Knit Top

I love wearing scoop neck tees- I hate having them come untucked all day long. So I am attempting to replace my purchased shirts with longer ones. I made this pattern up last winter, and love how it fits. I will be making this with cap sleeves, since it's meant to be used for layering and this is a spring wardrobe.

Well, that's what I have so far. I need to put together a few more tops and a jacket but I'm off to a start!

**I removed two of the pieces that just weren't working with the others. I'll be posting pictures of the new revised swap later this evening.**